Eclectic doesn’t seem to encompass what has come down the many runways for men’s fashion week. Every designer seems to be doing there own thing, designing for their customer. At Dries van Noten there was no shortage of references to explain the themes. What struck me though was the somber mood the clothes and the models appear to convey. Always beautiful, the runway show was held on an opera stage and without being present I would imagine the dramatic venue added to the moodiness. Military references were very present and one must wonder if the timing of the development of this collection overlapped with the horrific Paris attacks. The richness and depths of color make you feel something. Alessandro Michele continues to awe the fashion crowd with his wearable version of geek-chic luxe. And new variations of the kangaroo fur-lined moccasins are sure to be a huge hit later this year. Armani’s collection was called “up to date” and true to form was a collection of very, very cool clothes for the sophisticated modern man. Any woman would be proud to see their man in Armani. Haider and Junya have a more specific vision and a word for Haider’s fall collection is opulence. The guys were clad in velvet and brocade and a lot of leather. Haider’s guy is always making a statement. Junya Watanabe’s collection was outerwear heavy and pants were skinny and wide. With a nod to mod fashion, three piece suits were refreshing without feeling to formal, especially for our oh-so casual times. Jonathan Anderson is keeping it real at Loewe. Much like he’s doing for the ladies, he’s leading this fashion house into a more playful era. And I really like it. Some of the pieces are not commercially viable at all, but he’s redefining the Spanish brand and for Fall, oversized is his theme. See, fashion is fun, even for the fellas.
Dries, Armani (2), Haider, Gucci (2), Junya, Loewe