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Fashion Week Style

A closer look at Emilia Wickstead


Let’s just get this out of the way: her clothes are not cheap. But Emilia Wickstead is one of few, newer designers these days who you can appreciate and admire for the art of what’s she’s created, without feeling like it needs to be in your wardrobe. Especially since her brand is quite specific. With that being said, I would love to be able to wear her delicious creations every day but I would literally go bankrupt. If it tells you anything, women like Lauren Santo Domingo, Kate Middleton, and Olivia Palermo are all fans.

She’s worked for Narciso Rodriguez, Proenza Schouler, and Giorgio Armani and when she launched her namesake label it was as a made-to-measure designer brand for those who could afford it, until she presented a Fall 2012 collection at London Fashion Week. Posh, yet sneaky is how I would describe her first few seasons. Disguising an otherwise perfect high tea dress with pleats across the back – was edgy for Wickstead at the beginning.

She is a designer’s designer – she knows how to use fabric to add a punch and is very precise with her tailoring and for many seasons Wickstead reinforced this foundation. One couldn’t separate Wickstead from pomp femininity; looks for the Royal and very rich set. And yet, just when you thought she was getting predictable – she presented her Fall 2014, a film noir-inspired collection rooted in goth leather looks (with pearl details, naturally) – still all very Wickstead with their sharp tailoring and a few creamy hued signatures mixed in. For Spring 2015, she confidently returned to a more colorful palette, but without her traditional print-heavy fabrics. Made for the girl going out on the town, still very British in its tradition, she introduced new, more relaxed silhouettes.

As she grows personally you can see it in her collections – she’s staying true to her original woman – but forcing her to get a little uncomfortable at times, but never undone or inappropriate. I purchased my first Emilia Wickstead piece from her Spring 2016 collection – not even I was impervious to the irresistible 50s-inspired floral, high waisted poof shorts – they were on constant rotation throughout the summer with a tucked in tank or fluted tunics. I also have this dress and I’m positively giddy each time I wear it.

Her clothes are not easy-breezy, but Spring 2017 was as close as she’s come. The airiness in the floral prints and sheer fabrics felt perfectly suited for a park stroll. And that’s totally sincere. I love the length of the dresses and jumpsuits as they don’t compromise the potential formality of a gown while simultaneously reinforcing the casualness of said “gown.” Wear it how you want. They they stand on their own without being fussy. And that is exactly the type of wardrobe I want to build upon.

Tags: fashion show / London Fashion Week / runway / Spring 2017 / Style

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